Petroleum-based cosmetic are derived from crude oil, which is separated into different fractions and undergoes rigorous purification during the refinement process. These include a wide variety of substances, such as mineral oils, paraffin, petrolatum, synthetic polymers (like acrylates and silicones), waxes and serve as raw materials for the creation of many other functional synthetic components used in cosmetic formulations. While many associate these ingredients with environmental concerns or potential skin irritation, they are often more stable, valued for their unique properties—moisturisation, texture enhancement, quick action, and cost-effectiveness—than natural alternatives [1].

• Mineral Oils and Paraffin (Vaseline oil, Ceresin)

Mineral oils, including paraffin, are commonly found in moisturizers and ointments, where they act as occlusive agents, forming a protective layer on the skin to lock in moisture. They have been used for decades in skincare and lip care products due to their excellent skin tolerance, protective properties, and wide range of viscosities. Unlike plant oils, mineral oils are non-allergenic, highly stable, and resistant to oxidation or rancidity. Their safety is supported by extensive clinical and epidemiological data [2]. Cosmetic-grade mineral oils undergo rigorous purification processes to remove potential carcinogens and minimise aromatic hydrocarbons. Due to their high lipophilicity, mineral oils do not penetrate the skin and are not systemically bioavailable. They are also used in medicinal formulations for the treatment of skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, xerosis, etc. [3]

• Silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Amodimethicone)

Synthetic polymers derived from petroleum, such as silicones, are widely used in skincare and makeup due to their ability to provide smooth application, improve spreadability, and create a lightweight texture. Silicones help fill in fine lines and form a breathable barrier that locks in moisture without clogging pores. Although sometimes criticized for being "unnatural," research confirms their non-irritating and non-comedogenic properties [4].

Many ingredients, including silicones, are often wrongly accused of being harmful, even though they are deemed safe by health authorities for use in cosmetics. Silicones represent a vast array of structures, most of which are inert and stable, with beneficial effects, such as aiding in scar healing. However, certain volatile silicones like D4 and D5 have come under regulatory scrutiny, with limitations on their use in products where prolonged exposure through inhalation is possible [5]. 

• Acrylic Polymers (Acrylates Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer)

Acrylates in cosmetics primarily function as film-formers, thickeners, and stabilisers. They help create smooth, even textures, improve product spreadability, and enhance long-lasting effects by forming a flexible film on the skin or hair. Additionally, acrylates contribute to water resistance, making them essential in SPF products and long-wear makeup. Their role is to improve texture, stability, and performance without compromising the feel or finish of the product.

When properly formulated, acrylates are considered safe for use in cosmetics. Regulatory bodies, such as the FDA and the EU Cosmetics Regulation, have approved their use in specified concentrations, as they are non-toxic and generally non-irritating at these levels [6]. Extensive testing has shown that acrylates do not penetrate the skin and are unlikely to cause adverse effects. Moreover, modern purification processes ensure the removal of any potentially harmful impurities, making them safe for use in personal care products [7].

The short answer is: not necessarily. The negative perception of certain petroleum derivatives is mainly linked to the inclusion of CAS number 8009-03-8 in the CMR substance list as a probable human carcinogen. However, this CAS number represents both refined and non-refined petrolatum (Vaseline), with only the non-refined version being potentially harmful. Pharmaceutical-grade petrolatums (USP) that meet FDA purity standards are safe and not carcinogenic, as confirmed by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), which classifies refined oils as suitable for food and medicinal use [8].

Another concern about these substances is their alleged high occlusiveness and comedogenic properties. However, pharmaceutical-grade mineral oils, such as Vaseline oil, are widely used in skincare for their superior moisturising and emollient qualities. Numerous studies support the safety of these oils, even at high concentrations, highlighting their chemical stability and skin-renewing properties [9].

One of the primary criticisms of petroleum-based ingredients revolves around their environmental impact. These ingredients are sourced from non-renewable resources, and some synthetic polymers are not biodegradable, leading to concerns about their accumulation in the environment. This is why many skincare brands, including ours, are moving towards avoiding petroleum-based polymers in leave-on products.

However, it’s important to note that in makeup, petroleum-based polymers can be crucial to achieving the desired texture and finish. Without these ingredients, products like foundation or eyeshadow would not apply as smoothly or last as long. When used responsibly, synthetic polymers can provide significant benefits without posing major risks to skin health.

Petroleum-based ingredients, while often misunderstood, play an important role in the cosmetics industry. Ingredients like mineral oils, synthetic polymers, and silicones offer numerous benefits, from moisturising dry skin to enhancing product performance in makeup and SPF formulations. While it’s essential to remain mindful of environmental concerns, the use of these ingredients in regulated, tested formulations should not be the cause for alarm.

Understanding the science behind these ingredients allows to make informed decisions without succumbing to fear-based marketing. As always, the key is balance.

1. S. Sharma, U. Ahmad, J. Akhtar, A. Islam, M. Muazzam Khan, and N. Rizvi, ‘The Art and Science of Cosmetics: Understanding the Ingredients’, Cosmetic Products and Industry - New Advances and Applications. IntechOpen, Nov. 02, 2023. doi: 10.5772/intechopen.112925. 

2. Chuberre, B., Araviiskaia, E., Bieber, T. and Barbaud, A. (2019), Mineral oils and waxes in cosmetics: an overview mainly based on the current European regulations and the safety profile of these compounds. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 33: 5-14. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15946

3. Agero A. L. C., Verallo-Rowell V. M. A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis //DERM. – 2004. – Т. 15. – №. 3. – С. 109-116.

4. O'Shaughnessy K. D. et al. Homeostasis of the epidermal barrier layer: a theory of how occlusion reduces hypertrophic scarring //Wound repair and regeneration. – 2009. – Т. 17. – №. 5. – С. 700-708.

5. Lionetti, Nicola, and Luigi Rigano. 2018. "Labeling of Cosmetic Products" Cosmetics 5, no. 1: 22. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5010022

6. Bernauer U. et al. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) Opinion on Styrene/Acrylates copolymer (nano) and Sodium styrene/Acrylates copolymer (nano)-SCCS/1595/2018-Preliminary Opinion. – 2018.

7. Fiume MM, Heldreth B, Boyer I, et al. Safety Assessment of Cross-Linked Alkyl Acrylates as Used in Cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology. 2017;36(5_suppl2):59S-88S. doi:10.1177/1091581817707927 

8. World Health Organization—International Agency for Research on Cancer. IARC Monographs on the Evaluation of the Carcinogenic Risk of Chemicals to Humans, Polynuclear Aromatic Hydrocarbons, Part 2, Carbon Blacks, Mineral Oils (Lubricant Base Oils and Derived Products) and Sorne Nitroarenes; World Health Organization—International Agency for Research on Cancer: Lyon, France, 1984; Volume 33.

9. Stamatas, G.N. Mineral Oil in Skin Care: Safety Profile. In Lipids and Skin Health; Pappas, A., Ed.; Springer International Publishing: New York, NY, USA, 2015; Chapter 19.